YOUNGSTOWN — Local historian and author Thomas G. Welsh reminded listeners at Wednesday afternoon’s lecture at the Wick Park Pavilion that everything old is new again.

Speaking before the Rotary Club of Youngstown during its weekly meeting, he discussed the Mahoning Valley’s little-known past connection to local breweries that started in 1846 by the Smith Brewing Co., tapped its last keg in 1920 because of the Prohibition era and after several attempts has developed a major resurgence in the area.

“We’re restoring a tradition that was seemingly lost,” Welsh said.

He compared the original beers to the current crop of craft brews today.

“Many of the beers would have been palatable for brewing craft beers today. They were full-bodied, but, maybe a little bitter for modern tastes.”

Before alcohol was outlawed, the area had 15 breweries running, although not at the same time. “Some were small, some were short-lived, but the sheer number of breweries showed that this was a vibrant industry,” Welsh said.

Despite Prohibition ending in 1933, the area’s breweries failed to rise up like yeast affecting the beer making process. Major brewing companies, automation and the ability to transport large amounts of alcohol via tractor trailers on the interstate highway system left little room for smaller companies to re-enter the market. Instead, they transitioned to ice and soft drink production or closed, Welsh said.

In the 1980s, the hobby of craft brewing blossomed, which eventually resulted in nearly 6 billion barrels produced annually by lovers of the beverage.

Cleveland’s Great Lakes Brewing Company led the resurgence of a smaller beer company in 1988. Three years later, Meander Brewing opened in Austintown, but it closed in 1993.

Located in a former Shoney’s restaurant — and now Plaza Azteca — the Ohio Brewing Company brought craft beers to Niles in 1997. Its Cardinal Ale won a gold medal at the World Beer Championship in Chicago. The brewery closed and reopened in Cuyahoga Falls.

Attempting to create a local market, B&O Station, Rust Belt Brewing Company and Lake Milton Brewery left only sudsy memories.

Undeterred, over the past decade, other craft beer makers have made a local imprint, including Penguin City Brewing and Noble Creature Wild Ales & Lagers (Youngstown), Paladin Brewing and Biker Brewhouse (Austintown) and Birdfish Brewing Co. (Columbiana).

Opened in 2018, Modern Methods Brewing Company was downtown Warren’s first craft brewery since 1880.

Connecting brewing’s past and present, Welsh brought up a conversation with Aspasia Lyras-Bernacki, co-owner of Penguin City Brewing, who recalled finding a Smith Brewing bottle from the 19th century during the 2020 excavation at the company’s location in downtown Youngstown.

“She said, ‘What’s funny is that we’re mimicking what was happening on this site back then with the production of craft beer.'”

Welsh has chronicled significant Mahoning Valley cultural and social history, including “Classic Restaurants of Youngstown,” “A History of Jewish Youngstown and the Steel Valley,” “Strouss’: Youngstown’s Dependable Store,” “Closing Chapters: Urban Change, Religious Reform, and the Decline of Youngstown’s Catholic Elementary Schools, 1960-2006,” “The Life and Legacy of William M. Cafaro” and “The Ursuline Sisters of Youngstown.”

His talk set up the Youngstown Rotary Club’s seventh annual Groundhog Craft Beerfest on Saturday at Stambaugh Auditorium, 1000 Fifth Ave. Stationed near a display of brewing-related artifacts, Welsh will answer suds lovers’ questions about the area’s brewing past.

Twenty-two area brewers and winemakers will offer tastings of their products during two sessions — 1 to 4 p.m. and 5 to 8 p.m. Food vendors and musical entertainment also will be featured.

General admission is $50. Preferred tickets are $100 and include access to an exclusive area featuring unique beers, charcuterie and special mugs from Steelite International.

Tickets can be purchased through the Stambaugh Auditorium box office by calling 330-259-0555 or visiting www.stambaughauditorium.com.

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